olympus trip 35
The Olympus Trip 35 holds a sizeable space in the camera bags of many film photographers, and the more you learn about this little camera, the more you come to understand why it is so well loved.
Despite these little mechanical wonders being so popular, they aren’t without their issues. Thankfully, the more common issues it faces are (for the most part) rectifiable. I have two Olympus Trip 35’s with a 10 year age gap in front of me right now, and whilst there are some minor interior design changes between them, they look almost identical. What’s even better is that I’ve serviced both of them and so not only do they function identically, they function flawlessly. Sadly this isn’t the case for the majority of Olympus Trip 35’s out there, and as a predominantly Auto mechanical camera, it’s important that the guts of these are well maintained.
So if you’re interested in securing another 50+ years of life from your camera, please read on!
What I Offer:
Full services (CLA’s) - £75
Standalone repairs - Starting from £30
What HAPPENS WHEN you service my olympus trip 35?
Your camera will be assessed and have its fundamental functions checked which will include partial disassembly in order to effectively identify any areas of concern or faults.
You will be notified if your camera is in need of any parts or repairs and of any additional costs. I will send you photographic evidence to support this - there’s no duping here.
Your camera will be completely disassembled; every removable part comes out from the leatherette down to the screw.
The interior of your camera will be cleaned and any gunk and debris will be ejected. This includes from within the lens assembly and camera body. Those manky mouldy light seals are yanked right out too, and their residue is cleaned away.
Optics will have fungus and haze removed* and along with the camera body, these will be treated to eliminate lasting fungus spores. This prevents any fast recurrences of fungus.
Your selenium photocell will have obstructive oxidation removed and the metering system will be re-calibrated to ensure you get only the best exposures.
Your lens assembly will be lubricated with appropriate lubricants only. This is important as inadequate lubricants can cause damage and emit gasses which cloud lenses.
The shutter assembly components will be thoroughly cleaned, reassembled with any adjustments required and the key points of motion will be lubricated. This ensures accurate shutter speeds which I test for.
The internal light seal’s remnants will be removed and a new seal will be applied.
The viewfinder and its housing will be cleaned and the dust guard will be replaced and The externally visible parts of your camera all get a thorough clean.
New light seals are popped in to prevent any stray light reaching your precious film.
As your camera's insides are now all flawless and the outside parts are shiny clean, the entire thing can be reassembled. The lens will have its focus reset and all functions double/triple tested.
And very lastly, I give your camera a final polish, thank it for being such a good sport and then get it all wrapped up ready for its return to you.
*as much as is possible. Sometimes fungus / haze is inaccessible or is particularly resistant to removal methods.
The frequently asked.
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Generally speaking, repairs are invasive and require getting right inside your camera. Specific faults are usually caused by strain to the moving parts inside your camera. If the wind cog breaks, it’s likely undergone too much stress. If the meter isn’t working as well as it should (or at all), it’s likely dirty and suffering internal oxidation. If the red flag isn’t functioning, your aperture system is probably gunked up with grease and debris. You see where I'm going with this? 8/10 times the issue is caused by age related grime, dirt and wear. Given that to fix something I have to get right inside your camera, it wouldn’t be a bad idea of yours to have the whole thing serviced to get it up and running perfectly.
For the 2/10 occasions in which faults are the cause of wandering screws, advanced corrosion or missing parts, then of course targeting those specific areas might be more sensible. You can always send it in for assessment and i’ll make an honest recommendation to you. Again, no false reporting here!
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I am very happy to source replacements for you, or for you to identify these for me to order. I can then add the cost of these to your invoice. Alternatively I don’t mind at all if you already have these and want to send them in with your camera!
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Yes! I have absolute confidence in my work and so you get a 1 year guarantee on work done to your camera. There are some T&C’s, as a silly example, if you drop your camera in a pond or bury it in sand which then jams the mechanisms… then I can’t do much for that under the guarantee. But if your shutter suddenly starts jamming for no apparent reason, of course I will rectify that for you. You can read more about that here.
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Just click the ‘Contact Me’ button at the bottom of the page and fill out the form. It sends me an email, I then read it and then send you an email in return. Very smart, very digital.
This all sounds complicated and I’m not sure what I need…
If the above has boggled your brain, or you just want an outright answer on what your camera might need to get it as shiny and new looking again then reach out.
I am always happy to talk things through and make it all make sense. Either reach out by clicking the “Contact Me” button below, or send me an email at rollwithitcameras@gmail.com.
I’m looking forward to hearing from you!